How to Replace Skid Steer Tracks

Replacing a skid steer track means relieving tension, working the old track off the drive sprocket and rollers, fitting the new track on, and re-tensioning it to spec. The exact sequence and tension procedure vary by undercarriage design, so always follow your operator's manual for the model-specific steps and torque values — this is a process overview, not a substitute for it.

Safety first

Track replacement involves a raised machine, stored spring or hydraulic tension, and a track assembly that can weigh well over 100 lbs depending on size. Before doing anything else: park on level ground, lower the lift arms or attachment fully, shut down the engine, remove the key, and block the machine so it cannot roll. Track tensioning systems on most machines store significant force in a spring or grease-hydraulic cylinder — never work on a tensioner without confirming it's fully relieved first, and never put fingers or hands between the track and any roller or sprocket while the machine could move.

Step 1: Relieve track tension

Every undercarriage has a tensioning mechanism, most commonly a grease-hydraulic cylinder (loosened by slowly releasing a grease fitting) or a mechanical adjuster bolt. Relieve tension fully before attempting to remove the track — trying to pry a fully-tensioned track off the sprocket is both difficult and unsafe. Refer to your operator's manual for the exact location and release procedure for your machine's tensioner, since over-releasing a grease-hydraulic system can also cause its own issues.

Step 2: Raise and support the machine

Most track replacement requires lifting that side of the machine off the ground so the track has room to be worked off the rollers. Use the method your manual specifies (integrated lift points, jack stands, etc.) — never rely on a jack alone without secondary support, and never work underneath or beside a machine supported only by hydraulic lift arms.

Step 3: Work the track off

With tension relieved, the track is walked or rolled off the drive sprocket, front idler, and mid-rollers, typically starting at the rear or front idler where clearance is greatest. This step is where design differs most between machines — some undercarriages need the idler pulled back further, others need an attachment point disconnected first. Follow your manual's specific sequence rather than forcing a general process.

Step 4: Inspect the undercarriage before installing the new track

While the track is off is the only time to properly inspect sprocket teeth, rollers, and idlers for wear. A worn sprocket or roller will accelerate wear on a brand-new track, so this is worth doing even though it adds time to the job. Replace or flag any component that shows uneven wear, flat spots, or play in the bearings.

Step 5: Fit the new track

Position the new track around the rollers and idler first, then walk it up onto the drive sprocket last, since the sprocket is usually the tightest point to clear. Confirm the tread direction is correct before final seating — many track patterns are directional, and running one backward reduces traction and accelerates wear.

Step 6: Re-tension to spec

Tension the track using your machine's specified procedure and target — this is almost always a sag or deflection measurement at a specific point on the track, not a torque value. Under- or over-tensioning is one of the most common causes of premature track failure, so this step should always follow the manual's exact spec rather than a "feel" judgment. See the companion track tension guide for what wrong tension looks and feels like once the machine is back in use.

Step 7: Run and recheck

After the first short work session on a new track, recheck tension — tracks commonly settle slightly as they seat, and many manufacturers recommend a tension recheck after an initial break-in period. Confirm this interval in your operator's manual.